Miuccia Prada. Europe Press
The FASHION Style
The collection created by Miuccia Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons recovers the need for clothing in total contact with the body.
January 18, 202111:55RULES | AGENCIESRelated news
"We all need to return to human contact", with this motto was born the Prada collection for men's fashion for next autumn/winter presented today in Milan and which proposes for all occasions the long john, the complete set of men's underwear from the past. The collection created by Miuccia Prada and the co-creative director Raf Simons recovers the need for clothing in total contact with the body and for this he chooses for all his proposals the long john complete intimate that men wore in the past to wear or under suits, but visible, with the sleeves rolled up or as a comfortable garment. The black or white long john of the past gives way to a garment in a jacquard version and with other designs and colors, but always close to the body "to give a physical sensation of softness and protection, like the one we all need in these times of pandemic. This is because, reflects Miuccia Prada in an interview with fashion school students from around the world, streamed online immediately after the parade.
The show, without an audience due to security measures due to the pandemic, takes place in an abstract space created by Rem Koolhaas and AMO, suspended between the interior and exterior, between marble and fur, where the models not only parade, but that also indulge in a liberating dance. But in addition, the intimate garment is covered with skinny pants and jackets and coats - single or double-breasted - with larger volumes, but above all in tactile fabrics, from jacquard knitting to geometric motifs to furs, from re-nylon to bouclé tweed. The collection ranges from classic wool pinstripes to brightly colored leather bomber jackets. For Kean Etro, in these days of confinement, our wardrobes have been mixed "mixing day and night, interior and exterior, finding our own identity in clothing," he explains. For this reason, the Etro collection mixes cashmere shorts with sweaters, fluorescent vests and printed work trousers, which could be used both in summer and autumn. The satin shirt is made with the linings of an evening dress, the pants are baggy, in wool or satin and with a multitude of prints. The desire for normality also includes a party in the heights, the one that Massimo Giorgetti imagines for the men's collection next winter for the Msgm brand.
"This collection, which I wanted to call vertigo thinking about the sensations experienced in the high mountains, but also about the fears related to the times we are living in", says the designer. The models parade under a blizzard, recreated in a studio by Mediaset, and the air that one breathes is resolutely young and urban. The teddy sweaters, which imitate teddy bears, the laser-printed jackets with the outlines of the Mont Blanc peaks, the T-shirts with the retro postcard print of the most famous mountain resorts, from Chamonix to Courmayeur. The classic cable-knit wool sweater with the logo, the alpine shorts in houndstooth, knitwear and jacquard, or the sweatshirt with images of the emblematic Cervino or Matterhorn.
[More information: Prada will stop using animal skins in its products]
