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The moral of an era is under the skirts.To get from the nineteenth -century pololos to the current thong the Victorians had to lose their empire, two world wars forced women to go out to work outside the home and Nietzsche killed God.Underwear does not change often, but when it does, it is not a whim of a seamstress, it usually comes from a social seizure or a technological revolution.
Lingerie has always been used to create a protective barrier between clothing and skin.In the 18th century, above all, a matter of hygiene and body structure was,.But morality, always obsessed with the genitals, introduced their taboos, and fashion, tyrain and ruthless, was launching different designs to adapt the woman's body to the silhouette of the moment.The Victorian era was strict in the figure.He pressed his ribs to suffocation and put women's legs in a Hula Hoops prison.
Muchos de los corpiños (masculinos y femeninos), cubrecorsés, crinolinas, enaguas, bragas, sujetadores y calzoncillos que vistieron los europeos y norteamericanos del XVIII, XIX y XX están hoy expuestos en el Museo Victoria & Albert de Londres.There are also Spanish green silk socks that carry enrolled political messages.Three centuries ago it was common among men who could pay them.
This lingerie story begins at the end of XVIII.The corpiños had imposed to gird the body of the women, raise their posture and, incidentally, make wired against the rubbing of a libertine hand.Acted in defense of decency.Going without this garment was an important rudeness and ended in the preferred insult in history: ‘whore’.
But, although they wore them, they made them.Underwear was a men's business.And it wasn't a bad business.In a recovered time, only the tailors could enter the most intimate stays of women and, with the excuse of taking measures, saw and felt more skin than allowed.In return, they should know about anatomy, fashion and preparation.
By 1800 women entered the corpiños business.The new designs were more flexible and more comfortable.It is not surprising that they took the opportunity to free themselves from the slender cage where men had put them.In France, a few years before, many women had stopped using it moved by the ideas of the French Revolution.They considered it a form of oppression, just like wigs, socks and socks.Although that release of the torso would last little.At the beginning of the 19th century the ‘corset’ won again among women of all social classes.
At that time some men used corsets to stylize their figure, but it was better than anyone discovered it.They often laughed at them.They called them ‘idiots’ and ‘female’.This is seen in The Dandies Coat of Arms (1819), a publication exhibited until March 2017 in Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear.
In the 30s and 40s of the 19th century the military and athletes began to wear interior belts to raise their abdominal muscles.That bodice lost its female connotations and became something brave.Thus the jokes ended.
Until 1829 it must have been a calvary to put the corset.Women had to burn or tie ties behind the back.From that date the technique became easier.The first bodice appeared that fought ahead and, in less than two decades, almost all were already.
This lingerie garment had many detractors.In the street they said that it caused abortions and infertility.The doctors said that it hurts the ribs and reduced lung capacity.The seamstress Roxey Ann Caplin (1793-1888) worked for a long time with her husband, the physicist Jean François Isidore Caplin (1790-1870), to create less rigid corsets that allowed to breathe better better.In the great exhibition of 1851, in London, he received a medal for one of his models.
But a few years later, when the sexiest was the wasp waist, the bodice was so squeezed that he often led to the fainting.In England there are models of that time that, tied, left their waist in 48 centimeters.Today, the average of the British woman, is in 71 centimeters.
William Henry Flower (1831-1899) entered the debate that tried to determine how much the corset had to be tightened.The surgeon, anatomist and zoologist advised to respect the natural forms of women and, in his defense, in 1885 he wrote a book entitled Fashion In Deformity.In a series of illustrations and texts, it showed the deformations that a corset could cause in the human body.
Some were very aggressive.Others, on the other hand, were prescribed by doctors.They said they corrected the posture and straightened the spine.Among them, the Aertex model, a cotton fabric that has been used since then in interior garments, marketed in 1895.
The twentieth century brought a new corset that intended to make women fashionable forward.Literally.The S-Bend slipped his chest and shoulders forward and wore the abdomen, pelvis and buttocks backwards.They presented it as a bodice that corrected the posture but it was soon seen that this eccentric curvature oppressed the reproductive organs and the skeleton.Walking in that position was a martyrdom and women complained about perpetual back pain.
The lingerie business became increasingly sophisticated. Henry Sherwood & Company se especializó en ‘corsés para el Imperio Británico’.They sold corpiños and flaxons of linen, cotton and silk for those hot places where the British had their colonies.Some garments were made of fabrics that, as they announced, also made a mosquitoh.
The Great War hit the textile industry.It was not easy to find Corsés.But women, without them, felt naked, poor, and that threw their morals for the soils.In Austria and Germany they made paper corpiños.World War II not only modified underwear material.He also forced seamstresters to introduce functional cuts that allow men and women to run when the alarm sirens sounded.
The twentieth century gave the final lunge to corset.They had been looking for a substitute for holding women's chest for half a century.In 1863 they patented in the US a ‘chest support’ that was hooked from the shoulders.From there he would continue to evolve to the current bra.Women needed to move more freedom.They were no longer aristocrats or servants.The middle class began to emerge and that meant working, making life on the street and even going out to dance without so much mojigatería.
At the beginning of the last century they started marketing Cup -shaped holders.There was no doubt that for pregnant women and those who had just given birth were much more suitable than any bodice.
The fasteners evolved until they reached the proposal of the designer Rudi Gernreich of NO-BRA (not a bra).In 1964 the Exquisite Form company commissioned a design and its proposal was a model without hoops or anything absolutely that it was not cloth.I wanted to respect the silhouette of each woman's chest instead of putting it inside the way that at that time was fashionable, as had been done until then.
Rudi Gernreich's models assumed an evolution in the idea that had until then of the bra.So did other designers throughout history.Underwear, just like people, have been losing the fear of exhibiting.The underpants are seen on the pants and many shirts are transparent because their function is to serve as a windshore for the corsetry.
Perhaps the moral of an era can be measured to weight.After all, it almost always depends on the footage of the fabrics of your underwear.
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Read the future magazine by clicking here.
